The Birches: thru-hiker base camp

21.1 miles, 2173.1 total, 5.2 to go.

it rained all night again and nobody got much sleep, so the Amigos and I were all up and on the trail early.

first 10 miles were through the last really beautiful woods.  they're amazing. more giant boulders, fast flowing streams, old growth forests with moss and lichen and rich green vegetation.  i still think it's like something from a movie.  it stopped raining about 5 miles into the day, but the trail never got really bad today.

at the 10 mile mark I reached Abol Bridge campground and the entrance to Baxter State Park.  I registered there as a thru hiker and stopped at the camp store for gatorade, soda, candy, and anything else that looked tasty; i was starving, as always.

the next few miles included two stream fords, several ponds, and more tourists; a lot more.  I arrived at the Katahdin Stream campground around 4:00.  I registered with the ranger and confirmed that I will summit tomorrow morning, if the trail is open.  the trail to the top can close at any time based on weather.  I also spoke with the owner of a hostel in Millinocket, ME who will be shuttling me and the Amigos to Bangor tomorrow afternoon after a stop at his place for showers and food.

we are the only thrus scheduled to summit tomorrow so we're the only people here at the Birches.  it's a campsite used only by thru-hikers.  I guess they don't want us mingling with the laid back country folk.  I am officially registered as the 47th NorthBounder to finish in 2009 (assuming I finish the whole thing tomorrow).  now I'll settle in for a night which I'm sure will not include much sleep. it's very exciting and sad at the same time to be so close to finishing.

later, 

L

rainbow spring campsite

19.6 miles, 2152.0 total.
it's my five month trail anniversary.
the Amigos and I left white house landing around 9:00. nice little boat ride across the lake and back to the trail.
it was rough going most of the day. trail was flat but very very wet and muddy with lots of rocks and roots. also went through some really amazing forests again today.
additionally, we climbed Nesuntabunt Mtn. only 1500 feet but it was a great hike. no views because we were in the clouds. the trail wound through huge canyons with giant rock walls and boulders that were covered in moss and then went up giant rock staircases to another level of the same and then to the top. it was like something from lord of the rings. really very amazing, and there was a very thick fog and mist blowing around the entire time so it made it more dramatic.

made it to this very remote campsite by 5:30. ate dinner as it began to sprinkle. looks like it could rain but hasn't started yet. no good tent sites left here because a large camping group took them all, so I'm in an odd spot between the trail and a small lake/pond. hope of doesn't pour tonight or I could be in a puddle.
feet are definitely red and swollen thanks to the wet trail and rain and stream fords. glad this is almost over. this new wave of WET is killing me. 26 miles to go; can't believe it!!

later,
L

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white house landing

25.5 miles, 2132.4 total.
rain finally stopped at 3:00 this morning so I didn't have to walk in it today, BUT the trail is soaking wet again which makes for rough going. ugh!
trail was mostly flat, mostly. we went through more really cool forests and had to ford a very fast flowing stream over slippery rocks. it was crazy!
the mosquitoes were out of control today. I was afraid to stop for a break because they might eat me. as i hiked behind one of the Amigos i could see the mosquito cloud following him. really really bad.
at the end of the day I took a .9 mile side trail to the a boat dock in a secluded cove on a lake. next to the dock is an airhorn. I blew the airhorn once and it echoed eerily all across the lake and valley. then...someone on the other side of the lake came across in a fishing boat and took me to the other side where this hostel is located. really very cool. they cooked a wonderful meal and I had beer and ice cream; great combo for a thru hiker. I'm am dry and will be sleeping in a warm dry bed. it feels good.
45 miles to go.

later,
L



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Monson, ME - Shaw's Hiker Hostel

17.9 miles, 2063.8 total.
early start today because we were excited about making our last official trail town stop.  town time is always exciting!
the trail was awful again today. very muddy and wet. several times my poles sunk into the ground up to their handles. I'm surprised I haven't snapped them in half yet.
nothing spectacular today other than the fact that of didn't rain until we were done hiking. very nice.
staying at Shaw's, a famous hostel - among hikers. they offer a $7 all you can eat breakfast. you order by giving them one number - 1,2,3,4,5,etc. the number is how many of each item you will receive. if you order 3: you get 3 eggs, 3 blueberry pancakes, 3 pieces of bacon, 3 sausage links, and 3 scoops of hash-browns. wow.
tomorrow I will begin the 100 mile wilderness. it's touted as the most remote stretch of the entire trail. then it's just about 15 miles to the finish!

later,
L

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caratunk, me

14.0 miles, 2027.1 total, 151.2 to go.
another very cool night with bugs buzzing outside my tent. left camp at 8:30.
trail was flat, flat, flat. hiked next to pierce pond river for a couple hours and saw several beautiful waterfalls. also got to go across the AT famous Kennebec river. we had to wave to the "ferry driver" who waits on the other side of the river. he paddles across in his canoe and takes back two hikers at a time, and the hiker in front is required to paddle. it's about 50 yards wide, 8-10 feet deep, and flows very very fast. cool.
right after the river is caratunk, where we had mailed extra food for the next few days. we got the packages from the post office and someone offered to drive us to a nearby restaurant for a late lunch. it turns out it is also a hostel/river rafting lodge...and it's really cheap. so we're staying here tonight. $12 per person with all the usual offerings. here with the amigos. this doesn't change the schedule and plan for the rest of the trip. at this time, looks like the five of us will summit Mt. Katahdin, Baxter Peak (end of the U.S. AT) on July 28th. that's 5 months and 2 days after I started this journey. wow. amazing.
the amigos are the 4 guys from cincy.  they're all very athletic, in much better shape and younger than I am (by about 13 years!), but it's great to hike with them.

later,
L


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spaulding mtn lean-to

18.7 miles, 1977.0 total.
very late start today because of shuttle schedule out of gull pond. we hit the trail at 10:30.
what a beautiful day! mostly clear and sunny skies with amazing visibility. climbed Saddleback Mtn - 4120, The Horn - 4040, Saddleback Jr - 3655, and Lone Mtn - 3260. got some great pictures from Saddleback. could look back and see the White mountains in NH and, for the first time, could look north and see Katahdin looming - the final summit and the end of the trail. still have 201.3 miles to go, though.
got here around 7:00. just as we were beginning to cook dinner it started to rain and it hasn't slowed yet. the shelter is full of NOBOs and SOBOs, and I'm with the amigos - tenting nearby. tomorrow is another dealt tough day, especially if it keeps raining, then the trail flattens out.

later,
L



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gull pond lodge - rangeley, me

9.4 miles, 1958.3 total.
left camp at 8:00 knowing we only had about 10 miles to go to rangeley. I ran out of water treatment last night, my pole bent a little more while I was trying to keep from falling into a giant mud hole, and I'm almost out of insect repellent, so I need to go to an outfitter. rangeley is the last trail town with anything close to an outfitter. they also have a big grocery store, so we're going to buy extra groceries and mail them ahead to a post office on the trail. that way we don't have to go to another town until monson.
stating at this hostel that is completely filled with NOBO hikers. looks like I'm in a big pack - that hasn't happened much.
getting closer. have two really tough days coming up - big climbs - then things flatten out a bit.

later,
L


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sabbath day pond shelter

17.0 miles, 1948.9 total.
back on the trail at 9:30 after a crazy bumpy 9 mile shuttle ride.
started with a huge climb up Big Blue - 1400 to 3600 over 3 miles. also had several streams to ford, but they were surprisingly low. the terrain is not too bad. also passed several lakes/ponds today. a bit muddy and wet, but the giant rocks are almost completely gone.
I decided to stick with the Amigos because they keep a good pace and take breaks like I do; a couple small stops and a lunch stop.
got here around 5. we ca already here loons and owls making noises, and there are two giant rabbits running through our campsite chasing each other around. I'll probably be tenting the rest of the way, even in rain, because the mosquitos are getting to be really bad.

later,
L

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carlo col shelter - MAINE

17.0 miles, 1897.4 total, 280.9 to go.
I'm in MAINE!!
got an easy hitch out of gorham back to the trail this morning at 8. had a bunch of ups and downs including climbing over mt hayes, cascade mt, and mt success. I think they're 2555, 2600, and 3560 respectively. it was sunny and beautiful all day...until I got here. now it's pouring. ha. I won!
today I caught up with thru hikers Moses and Spokes. they passed me when I stopped in NYC and I've been chasing them ever since. finally got to meet them nice guys.
tomorrow I go through Mahoosuc Notch. it's touted as the most difficult mile on the entire trail. fun, fun, fun. can't believe I'm here. still have a long way to go, but I made it to Maine. wow.

later,
L

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gorham, nh

this entry actually covers July 9&10. it will probablybe long and I will ramble a bit. quit now, if you want.
I left galehead hut at 5:00 AM to get an early start to what was planned to be a 21 mile day. long compared to others recently. the first 1/2 mile was straight up south twin mtn - 4902 ft - and then the next 7 mile were downhill. I flew. it was cloudy but not too wet. I got to the next hut in time for their breakfast leftovers. yummy pancakes with lots of syrup. then the next 8 miles were a combo of flat with no rocks (yea!) and downhill. again, I flew.
after that, it was back up. up to mt webster, mt jackson, (wow, that's weird. didn't michael jackson like that little kid from the show webster?). then I got to the next hut. it was still early and I was still moving at a good clip, but it began to rain. I needed to get over mt pierce and mt franklin to get to the next hut. it was very dark and rainy...and I fell on a big boulder. it's a little hard to describe. my feet both flew out from under me and I landed on my side, sliding down the boulder about 50 feet. when I got controll of everything I noticed my hands were bloody. I cut the heel of each palm, the outside of my right hand under the pinky, and the big one - my right ring finger was missing a whole lot of skin from just under the nail to the first knuckle. it was the one bleeding significantly. I cleaned up everything and took off for the last shelter; still about 2 miles away. when I got there the bandage in my finger was very bloody and the hut master thought I should have somebody look at it. so we cleaned and bandaged it again, and I set of for the top of mt washington - about 1.5 miles away. I hiked with two others who were already planning on going there. got there and a nurse looked at my boo-boos and bandaged them all up. no stitches needed but the cut goes almost to the bone. cool. also, my entire shoulder is bruised, I have cuts/scrapes from my elbow to my wrist, and a cut and lump between my eyes - where my glasses slammed into my pretty little face.
anyway - it turned out to be a 27 mile day. somehow. then...there's nowhere to stay on mt washington and it was late, so I had somebody drive me to a hostel in gorham.
I stayed at the hostel and decided to slack pack on the 10th to just get the whites done and over with. the hostel gave me a small pack and I only carried a tarp, emergency bivy, rain jacket, snacks, and water. it was less than 8 pounds. the hostel held the rest of my stuff and gave me a ride to and from the trail. I did 2 sections. one in the morning from 5 to 11 and one in the afternoon from 12:30 to 8. that's one heck of a double shift. I got a total of 34+ miles done during the day - carrying very little and moving quickly with no rain; although, it was still overcast with low clouds so I couldn't see any of the mountains. ugh.
that leaves me at 1880.4 miles total with 297.9 to go!!!

I think that's all for now.


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galehead hut

12.9 miles, 1818.6 total.
got a late 9:30 start because of shuttle schedules at chet's place.
very tough day. it drizzled and rained all day. I climbed Little Haystack Mtn - 4760, Mt Lincoln - 5089, Mt Lafayette - 5249, and Mt Garfield - 4488. coming down Garfield was amazing! I was hiking down a waterfall. actually walking down rocks in the falls as water flowed all around me. scary but cool. would have been nicer if it were hot and not raining, but it WAS raining and 55 degrees.
had planned on going farther but I'm tired and it started raining again.
I got to this hut around 4:15 and they happily accepted my request for "work for stay". not sure what I'll be doing but I'll get fed and sleep indoors tonight. nice. one other thru here tonight and a bunch of tourist types. it's a giant cabin with a dining area, bathrooms, and bunk house.

later,
L

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chet's hostel - Lincoln, NH

9.0 miles, 1805.7 total.
short wet day. left camp early to climb kinsman mtn. it has south and north peaks. climb was from 2500 to 4350 then down a bit then back up to 4300. then down all the way to 1450. again, it was straight up and down over crazy rocks. it's mentally and physically draining. I don't think I've felt this drained for a long time. half way down it started to...pour on me. surprise!!!
I got to the highway and decided to call this guy chet to see of he had room at his place. he has a small hostel in his house and offers a shuttle to and from the trail.
i'll wait out the rain again because I have to climb mt lafayette next. it goes from 1450 to 5250 and I can't start it halfway through the day in the rain. no way. I have about 75 miles to gorham, nh. it's rumored to be better trail after that town. we will see. I'm about to hit the toughest part of the white mountains, the presidential range. mtns Lincoln, Garfield, Pierce, Franklin, Washington (biggest), Madison, Carter, Hayes, maybe more...I'm getting tired thinking about all of them. it will be slow going, but hopefully the weather will be nicer. doubt it.
I'm ready to be finished now. :)

later,
L


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eliza brook shelter

17.0 miles, 1796.8 total.
on the trail by 6:30 for a big climb up and over mt Moosilauke. it was a very nice day for it. the showers last night cleared out the bad weather for now.
the moose was a climb straight up from 1400 ft to 4802 ft. I was on top by 9:00 and called K to tell her I was still alive. I had some great views from up there. I could see the rest of the white mtns, that I will soon climb, and also the green mtns of Vermont, that I just came through. cool. finally got some pictures that weren't all clouds. then came the bad part. the descent was a mile straight down over jagged rocks and boulders - but right next to a beautiful waterfall. very very slippery and dangerous. many places had rebar drilled into the boulders for handrails and logs also connect to the rocks for steps. just put away my sticks and climbed down using hands, feet, and butt. it took forever. probably the longest mile so far. at least I got some more pictures.
then the remaining section was little ups ad downs over rocks. it took forever and was very tiring. got in late.
here with tonto and several SOBOs. we are on the lookout for a crazy fat raccoon that has been terrorizing people at this shelter. haven't seen it yet.

later,
L


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hikers welcome hostel

14.6 miles, 1779.8 total.
tonto was up very early to get a head start on the big climb, and he slipped and fell outside the privy...and knocked himself out when his head hit the ground. nobody noticed until he had been gone for 30 minutes. then he came around the corner shaky and woozy. one of the other hikers checked him out and made sure he was ok. we tried to get him to sit for a while but he took off down the trail. it turns out he is ok, but it just goes to show you that every step is important and dangerous out here.
I went up mt cube and had very nice views because it was actually sunny today!! it was a tough climb up a lot of quartz-like rocks that were jagged and slippery. I caught up with tonto in the afternoon and he looked okay. I decided to stay here at the hostel to make sure i've got everything I need or the White Mountains. also, I need to do laundry. it seems very laid back here...and cheap. only $15 for the night including a shower and load of laundry. cool. it was very nice today - until tonight when it started to rain again. ugh.

later,
L


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hexacuba shelter

12.0 miles, 1765.2 total.
it rained a bit last night, but there were no bugs. I left camp around 7:30 as the dartmouth campers sang to me and then shouted "good luck, lunatic!"
the hike up smarts mtn was tough. went from 1100 to 3250 and it took me a long time. at the top it began to pour on me. a big thunderstorm parked itself above the area - very nice. I spent the rest of the day trying to avoid giant mud holes.
got to this shelter around 1:00 - early, but the weather makes it easy to decide to stay here. the next section is straight up mt cube, and it's very rocky. I'll wait out the weather and relax a bit. happy 4th to me.
here with tonto and several SOBOs. beginning to see more south bound thru hikers than north bound now.

later,
L


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trapper john shelter

16.0 miles, 1753.2 total.
it was difficult to leave town this morning. they have a great coffee shop with amazing coffee and pastries. finally left town at 10:00.
it wasn't raining and the sun was actually out every now and then. the trail was sloppy sloppy sloppy, but at least it didn't rain today.
had a couple of big climbs. one from 880 to 2290 and one from 950 to 2100. they were both pretty steep and rough with a pack full of food.
next few days will be similar as I move toward the white mountains. it will get tougher and slower going but be more scenic. can't believe it - only 425 miles to go, and these miles will probably be the best and hardest.
here with tonto, two NOBO sectioners from NH, and a group of sophomores from dartmouth who are on an official school outing.

later,
L


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hanover, N.H.

6.5 miles, 1737.2 total.
was on the trail by 7:30 and in town by 10:00. and completely soaked. it rained all night and all day. the last 2 miles were along a busy highway and trucks were flying by...drenching me with huge splashes from puddles. nice.
crossed into new hampshire just before getting to town, as I crossed the bridge over the connecticut river.
a couple of dartmouth students offered to let me stay for free in the basement of their frat house, but their frat president said it wasn't allowed. the house looked like the one from animal house. it was really crazy. worse than any I've ever seen before.
so I'm staying at the hanover inn. nice and dry insde while it pours outside.

later,
L


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happy hill shelter

20.4 miles, 1730.7 total.
rained and rained all night, and was still raining in the morning. the trail was very wet and muddy again, but it went over some new terrain. I went through forests, over hilltops, and through farmland. I even passed the Vermont "Inn" that they say inspired The Newhart Show. it was all very nice. there was even a wooden lawn chair on top of one of the bigger hills. so I sat and took a nice little wet break. in the afternoon the trail went through a small town, West Hartford, and I stopped at the local deli to have a sandwich and buy some special snacks for tonight. bought an orange soda, some apples, and pringles. got here around 5:30. still drizzling and my stuff is all wet again.
here with 2 section hikers from last night, Tonto (retiree) and High Octane (Alaska school teacher).

later,
L

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winturri shelter

18.0 miles, 1710.3 total.
took my time leaving the Inn this morning. had coffee and a big breakfast, and then I left around 9:00. rain held off a but in the morning but started again late in the afternoon.
trail was a little muddy and wet, but I was still able to move quickly. around 2:00, with only 5 miles left to go for the day, I came upon the best trail magic ever! a former thru hiker was at a remote road crossing with a grill and several coolers under a large canopy. he had hamburgers, veggie burgers, hot dogs, fruit and veggies, cheese and crackers, soda, water, Gatorade, beer, stove fuel, granola bars...anything a hiker could want. I sat and ate and drank and talked to him for about 2 hours. excellent.
got here to the shelter around 5:30. at 5:45 it started to rain again and hasn't stopped. it's been raining even harder in the last hour. here with 6 section hikers. I've been following several of them for a few days in the shelter journals.
later,
L


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clarenden shelter

16.9 miles, 1674.0 total.
early start today because the SOBO sectioners were up before 6:00. took my time and was still on the trail by 7:30. rained a little overnight but was very nice all day. the trail was even in very good condition.
saw several day hikers out near the road crossings and overlooks.
I got to my lunch stop shelter early, by noon (13m). so I ate and took a nap there. cool. this shelter was only 4 miles farther, but I had to go through clarenden gorge. it's a deep rocky gorge. down several hundred feet and then back up the other side. very tough. got here around 4:00. very nice shelter. here with a SOBO long trail hiker who will hike the AT after Vermont. he's already done re whole AT on 2003. very nice Canadian.
weird thing is that a local showed up shirtless on am ATV carrying a rifle and a big jug of whiskey. we listened to him ramble for a while and then he drove off. crazy. btw, just started raining and doesn't look like it will stop soon. ugh.

later,
L

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