Tuesday, August 4, 2009

A.T. Completion - Thank You!!


First, let me say Thank You to everyone. Your support, interest, kind words, and gift packages have made this entire journey much much easier. This was definitely a once in a lifetime journey. Amazing, amazing, amazing. Above is a picture of me at the top of Katahdin with the official sign, which was actually only a day or two old. It replaced one that was so worn it could barely be read or seen from a distance greater than 1 ft. Nice timing.
After an interesting and fun time in Bangor, Portland, and Boston I am back home in NYC. YEA!!!
I'm already finding the move back to normal life a bit more of a struggle than I thought it would be. Life as I have known it for the last 5 months is now completely gone. Well, not completely gone...my knees, hips, and feet still hurt and I'm still very hungry all the time.
Between thinking about and looking for employment I will be working on developing (electronically) my photos and posting them somewhere for all to view. I'll add a link on this site to their final resting place as soon as they are up. I will also send an email to anyone who is interested.
As I sit here typing and watching Kandra's six fish (Dave, Dave, Dave, Dave, Dave, and Dave) I'm reminded of the one very big thing I learned from the trail = Balance is good. Therefore, the next "J.O.B." will need to complement the other pieces of my life better than the last one did...and the other pieces will need to be and stay in place. :)
The sun is shining here in NYC this morning and they are predicting it to be Hot and Muggy (90+ F) today. I can't help but be thankful that I never had to hike in temps that high, but at the same time I have the urge to strap something to my back and go walking.


From what I’ve heard and read, 2009 was one of the wettest years on record for northbound thru-hikers. As I go back through my journal entries I think it rained or snowed almost 70% of my hike. A journey of this distance and type will obviously take its toll on any gear, but the amount of moisture my gear encountered was much greater than expected. Regardless, I believe for any piece of gear to make it through the types of torture encountered on a five month Appalachian Trail thru hike is absolutely incredible and a testament to its quality.

Some of my original gear was switched out within the first week of starting my journey, and some of my gear successfully made it through the whole trip. Below is a list of items that made it to the end. I’m including items that I kept with me the entire trip and those I sent home when the weather changed and then had sent back to me when I got further north. Basically, this is anything that didn’t break, fall apart, disintegrate, blow off my head or body on top of a mountain, succumb to the rain, ignite and burn up, or prove to be worthless and not needed.


EMS Velocity 35 sleeping bag
Campmor 20 sleeping bag
THERM-A-REST ProLite 3 short sleeping pad (never even had a leak)
Six Moon Designs Lunar Solo tarp tent (this is a beast)
Leatherman Micra multi-tool
Apple iPhone 3G
Trangia alcohol stove and wind screen
EMS Thunderhead rain jacket
EMS Techwick balaclava
EMS Ascent down sweater
EMS Techwick ¾ zip micro fleece
EMS Techwick midweight pants (long underwear)
Shure noise canceling headphones with mic for phone calls
Georgio Armani eye glasses from LensCrafters
Icebreaker wicking underwear (3 pairs for the entire trip) WOW.

There are several items that belong on an honorable mention list with more detail. Here they are with explanations.

ULA Conduit backpack. This is a great frameless, barebones pack. I went through two of these before giving up on it at Port Clinton, PA. Brian at ULA was amazing and the pack was great, but the stitching couldn’t handle all of the rain, snow, freezing and thawing that I had to deal with during the first half of the hike. Brian replaced my first pack at Atkins, VA when the stitching on both shoulder straps and the hip belt gave out. The same thing happened with the second pack, and by the time I reached Port Clinton I had restitched the straps several times. I will take part of the blame because I probably over packed it early in the hike.

Osprey Exos 46 (2009 model). I purchased this pack at the outfitter in Port Clinton, and it survived the remainder of the hike – through rain, rain, rain, snow, hail, wind, and even some very nice weather. It rides better than any other pack I’ve ever strapped onto my back, and it has the right mix of compression straps, pockets, and lash points. I love this pack.

MSR titanium pot/kettle. Before I began the hike I decided this pot was too expensive and not worth the weight savings. I quickly changed my mind once I was on the trail, and I bought one at the outfitter at Neels Gap, within one week of starting. I kept it the rest of the journey, using it as a pot and as a cup. This is one of those pieces of gear that I don’t think I’ll ever hike or camp without. It is simply amazing.

GSI Compact Scraper. I saw people using these all along the trail in Georgia, North Carolina, and Tennessee and thought it was a stupid piece of gear, but I kept my eye on them to see how and why they thought it was needed. Well, the reasons to have this are many. I caved in and bought one at the outfitter in Waynesboro, VA. I used it everyday for the rest of my hike, and I love it. It can be used as an eating utensil (used it when my spork broke and then again when I lost my next spork), as a pot cleaner, as a knife to cut food, as a tool to clean other gear, even as a zipper pull, and for other purposes.

Keen Voyageur hiking shoes. I went through 5 pairs of shoes on this hike; several were complete duds but these were absolutely amazing. Not the lightest weight pair you can buy, but they are comfortable and indestructible. The soles are solid and flex just enough for AT hiking, and they also drain water really well which is another plus for AT hiking. At least that is my experience.

EMS midweight hiking socks. I started with three pairs and switched out all of them at the halfway point. Six pairs of socks for five months is not too bad considering all the moisture and cold weather they endured.

Until later,
L

Posted from my Macbook while sitting in a comfy chair in my living room.

Tuesday, July 28, 2009

Katahdin Summit - Completion of Trail

5.2 miles, 2178.3 total.
It has been COMPLETED!!  At 9:25 AM eastern time I reached the summit of Katahdin and the northern terminus of the Appalachian Trail in Maine.  Five months and two days after I began my journey on February 26th in Georgia.
Didn't sleep much at all last night and decided to hit the trail before the Amigos, because I knew they would catch up with me at some point. I left camp at 6:30 and the climb was amazing and really tough. Probably the toughest of the entire trail, with an elevation gain of 4400 feet.  On the way up I was in a mist and clouds until the very top, so I didn't have any views and wasn't able to see anything except the trail at my feet.  The first mile or so was normal trail and then I put away my hiking poles and I just climbed rocks - hand over hand most of the way.  With 2.5 miles remaining it becomes a complete rock climb straight up giant boulders over the spine of the mountain.  Then with about 1.25 miles remaining, after the Amigos caught up with me, we hit the "table land", a flat area (slight ascent) above tree line that is covered with rocks.  With about a half mile remaining it starts to go up again over larger rocks.  there are several false summits - places you think you've reached the top but the trail keeps going up - until finally you see the official summit sign. holy cow.
As we reached the summit the mist and clouds began to clear and we had absolutely amazing views.  the bad part is that we had to go right back down the way we came up.  oh well.  What an amazing hike.
One of the coolest things to happen to me on the trail took place this morning.  On the way up and on the way back down I passed a family that I had met in Harpers Ferry, WV.  They recognized me and cheered me on as I went up and then congratulated me on the way down.
An absolutely amazing journey.  Right now I want to relax and rest; my feet hurt.
When i get back to NYC on August 1 or 2 I will post a follow up message with the best summit picture, and then in about a week I will post a link to many of the pictures I took - after I go through all of them.

a few stats-
total miles: 2178.3 (not including side trails and walking to and in towns)
number of days hiked in shorts: 3 (i don't like hiking in shorts!)
number of days hiked in short sleeves: 4 (i don't like hiking in short sleeves!)
number of pictures taken: 2000+ (i like to take pics)
pairs of shoes: 5 (ugh)
bear sightings: 8 (grrrrrrr....)
moose sightings: 2 (ohhhoooooo)
weight lost: 50 lbs. + (did i have that much to lose?)
number of shaves and hair cuts: 3 (i'm a beast!)
approximate % of days with rain: 65 (ugh!!)

Thank you all for your support.  You will hear from me again very soon.  I'm going through Millinocket, ME to Bangor, ME to Portland, ME to Boston, MA to NYC over the next few days...slowly and by mass transit, not walking.

later,
L


Monday, July 27, 2009

The Birches: thru-hiker base camp

21.1 miles, 2173.1 total, 5.2 to go.
it rained all night again and nobody got much sleep, so the Amigos and I were all up and on the trail early.
first 10 miles were through the last really beautiful woods.  they're amazing. more giant boulders, fast flowing streams, old growth forests with moss and lichen and rich green vegetation.  i still think it's like something from a movie.  it stopped raining about 5 miles into the day, but the trail never got really bad today.
at the 10 mile mark I reached Abol Bridge campground and the entrance to Baxter State Park.  I registered there as a thru hiker and stopped at the camp store for gatorade, soda, candy, and anything else that looked tasty; i was starving, as always.
the next few miles included two stream fords, several ponds, and more tourists; a lot more.  I arrived at the Katahdin Stream campground around 4:00.  I registered with the ranger and confirmed that I will summit tomorrow morning, if the trail is open.  the trail to the top can close at any time based on weather.  I also spoke with the owner of a hostel in Millinocket, ME who will be shuttling me and the Amigos to Bangor tomorrow afternoon after a stop at his place for showers and food.
we are the only thrus scheduled to summit tomorrow so we're the only people here at the Birches.  it's a campsite used only by thru-hikers.  I guess they don't want us mingling with the laid back country folk.  I am officially registered as the 47th NorthBounder to finish in 2009 (assuming I finish the whole thing tomorrow).  now I'll settle in for a night which I'm sure will not include much sleep. it's very exciting and sad at the same time to be so close to finishing.

later, 
L

Sunday, July 26, 2009

rainbow spring campsite

19.6 miles, 2152.0 total.
it's my five month trail anniversary.
the Amigos and I left white house landing around 9:00. nice little boat ride across the lake and back to the trail.
it was rough going most of the day. trail was flat but very very wet and muddy with lots of rocks and roots. also went through some really amazing forests again today.
additionally, we climbed Nesuntabunt Mtn. only 1500 feet but it was a great hike. no views because we were in the clouds. the trail wound through huge canyons with giant rock walls and boulders that were covered in moss and then went up giant rock staircases to another level of the same and then to the top. it was like something from lord of the rings. really very amazing, and there was a very thick fog and mist blowing around the entire time so it made it more dramatic.

made it to this very remote campsite by 5:30. ate dinner as it began to sprinkle. looks like it could rain but hasn't started yet. no good tent sites left here because a large camping group took them all, so I'm in an odd spot between the trail and a small lake/pond. hope of doesn't pour tonight or I could be in a puddle.
feet are definitely red and swollen thanks to the wet trail and rain and stream fords. glad this is almost over. this new wave of WET is killing me. 26 miles to go; can't believe it!!

later,
L

-- Post From My iPhone

Saturday, July 25, 2009

white house landing

25.5 miles, 2132.4 total.
rain finally stopped at 3:00 this morning so I didn't have to walk in it today, BUT the trail is soaking wet again which makes for rough going. ugh!
trail was mostly flat, mostly. we went through more really cool forests and had to ford a very fast flowing stream over slippery rocks. it was crazy!
the mosquitoes were out of control today. I was afraid to stop for a break because they might eat me. as i hiked behind one of the Amigos i could see the mosquito cloud following him. really really bad.
at the end of the day I took a .9 mile side trail to the a boat dock in a secluded cove on a lake. next to the dock is an airhorn. I blew the airhorn once and it echoed eerily all across the lake and valley. then...someone on the other side of the lake came across in a fishing boat and took me to the other side where this hostel is located. really very cool. they cooked a wonderful meal and I had beer and ice cream; great combo for a thru hiker. I'm am dry and will be sleeping in a warm dry bed. it feels good.
45 miles to go.

later,
L



-- Post From My iPhone

Friday, July 24, 2009

logan brook lean-to

24.0 miles, 2106.9 total.
it rained all night and all day. without a doubt, this has been my worst day on the trail. worse than the day i fell off the White Mountains in New Hampshire!  everything is wet, everything.  I'm sore, tired, hungry, and have bloody hands. but dammit I'm alive!
first 7 miles took over 4 hours to hike and were very dangerous; some would say treacherous. went over several exposed very rocky ridges in the pouring rain with winds of over 30 mph. I slipped and fell 4 times on the rocks this morning, including one time I slid down a steep slope scraping up my hands as I tried to stop the slide. big frowny face. :(
the middle 10 miles were quick and the trail was in better condition which allowed me to make up time and not think about the previous 7 miles.
then...the last 7 were horrible; absolutely horrible. all along a very rocky ridge then over White Cap mountain, which is a bald mtn covered with sharp rocks. it was raining and sleeting on top with winds so strong I could barely walk. It felt like the rain and sleet were going to rip the skin off my face. isn't this July? it was wild, scary and crazy.
12 hours of horrible hiking today. I'm soaked and it's still raining hard and the shelter is packed and I don't feel like cooking and my feet are swollen and red. i think every piece of clothing and gear is soaked. i have some things hanging from the rafters just in case they can drip a little bit dry, but i doubt that will happen. 71 miles to go.

later,
L


-- Post From My iPhone

Thursday, July 23, 2009

cloud pond lean-to

19.1 miles, 2082.9 total.
don't think I like the 100 mile wilderness very much. it drizzled all day but waited to rain until I got to camp then it began to pour.
wide variety of terrain today, but it was all slippery and wet and muddy. had to ford 4 streams so my feet and pants were soaked most of the day. went through beautiful old growth forests with lush green ground cover and lots of moss and lichen. I think. :)
last part of the day was a short but difficult climb from 900 feet to 2400 feet over Barren Mountain.
this shelter is .4 miles off the trail on a poorly maintained side trail. I fell in the mud twice just getting to the water source. ugh.

later,
L

-- Post From My iPhone